HUAUTLA, MEXICO — Alejandrina Pedro Castañeda opened a brown paper package and pulled out a handful of magic mushrooms, which many residents of this Indigenous Oaxacan town tenderly refer to as “child saints” or “the little ones that sprout.” Then she handed each of her six visitors — who had driven seven hours from Mexico City
CUETZALAN, MEXICO — Ricardo García kneels before the towering tree in the middle of town and, like his brothers and father before him, prepares for a journey taking him 100 feet up and 2,500 years into the past. He places one foot on a wooden step nailed into the spine of the tree trunk shorn of